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A Volkswagen and sand-bottom points make for a fine, early season surf trip.

1 year ago | Updated 1 year ago


Canada, the Pacific Northwest and Northern California. We can’t help it — we love the cold water and the accompanying waves. That being said, Timmy always has his eyes on the south, patiently waiting for the first opportunity to strike. All it took was a five-minute phone conversation to be convinced to hop on a plane and meet Timmy in Mexico City, where I found him passed out on the terminal benches. This was by no means a freak swell, but that’s not why we decided to make the mission — we went because we knew it’d be one of the first solid windows to surf these groomed sand points that had been sitting dormant all year. All photos Russell Holliday.

Timmy was in the barrel a good three seconds before this moment and probably about four seconds after. Needless to say, we both instantly knew the trip was worth it.

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Timmy was surfing one of those new Firewire Machado Midas boards pretty much the entire trip. After getting so barreled, it’s refreshing to do some turns.

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Nobody was really able to make this section — which made it a perfect place for us to link up in the water. Timmy navigated it with ease.

 

Our method of transportation consisted of a VW Baja Bug that we wrangled together from our friend Arnold and Cesar at Casa Mirador surf camp. Loaded with gear and boards, we hit the sand and began our search.

 

The one of many that got away.

 

Whether we had gotten insane waves that session or not, we always left the water with a smile. It was rad watching Timmy hold this pose as the barrel would grind down the point, it looked like he was standing still.

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Airing down the tires before we headed out on the sand. We were praying we wouldn’t get stuck — the VW was so light, we were literally floating on the sand! Nowhere was unreachable for us

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Timmy, coming around the corner on another legburner.

 

There were a lot of incredible, unridden waves this trip. The swell’s long interval made for some very long lulls with rogue sets every hour or so, catching everyone off guard.

 

Picking off a smaller one on the inside and taking full advantage.

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It wasn’t all tubes – a few sections opened up and allowed for some hacks as well.

 

Staying hydrated after making the walk to and from the surf.

 

The first sight that sent us scrambling to get in the water! Timmy was ripping through the car to find his leash while I was grabbing my bag to run up the point — we were both frothing.

 

This entire trip was a blur. Before we knew it we were packing our bags and heading home — but not without some incredible moments in between. In many ways, this photo sums it all up. Timmy has been coming down here for almost 20 years and is in love with everything about it. I was just stoked to be along for the ride. Click here to find out how to submit your own Tripwire.

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